Blurred background in photography? Sounds fancy, looks fancy but feels totally intimidating when you’re starting out.
But trust me, it’s way more doable than your brain is telling you. We’re gonna break it down, step by step with zero overwhelm.
We photographers often swoon over the blur because it keeps eyes glued to the main subject, plus it can make your images look a bit more polished (which is really handy).
The good news is that achieving a blurred background in photography doesn’t require months of slog. It’s actually rather straightforward.
Whether you’re using a DSLR or a mirrorless camera, there are a few easy steps you can follow to get that buttery, dreamy background.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through them and we’ll also touch on the ideal camera settings for maximum blur and how this simple tweak can elevate your shots.
So if you’re wondering how to achieve a blurred background in photography, you’ve come to the right place.
Let’s get on with it, then.
Why A Blurred Background in Photography
Before we plunge into the ‘how to’ bit, let’s address the glaring question: why would you even want a blurred background in the first place?
A soft, out-of-focus background makes your subject stand out, kinda like giving them the only spotlight on a stage.
It’s also a good way to hide any unwanted clutter behind them, and it injects that professional feel you see in portrait, animal, macro photography etc.
If you’ve ever been flawed by those portrait or wildlife shots brimming with creamy bokeh, that’s the result of what we’re going to discuss today.
Step One: Pick The Right Lens
The lens you pick can really make a difference when you’re after that blurred background in photography.
In general, lenses with wide apertures (think f2.8, f1.8, or f1.4) are the best bets for creating a shallow depth of field.
“What is a shallow depth of field” you ask?
Shallow depth of field means only a small part of your photo is in focus while the rest turns into that lovely soft blur. You get it by using a wide aperture (low f-number like f/1.8), getting closer to your subject, and sometimes using a longer lens. It’s perfect for portraits, close-ups, and any shot where you want your subject to stand out while hiding any distracting background chaos.
If you’re saddled with a kit lens that only goes down to f4, don’t despair. You can still get a bit of blur. Later on, we’ll look at ways to squeeze as much background blur as possible out of the gear you have.
Prime lenses, like the 50mm f1.8 (nifty fifty), are deemed the go-to option for achieving a blurred background.
They let more light in and contain fewer glass elements, resulting in a sharper subject and smoother bokeh.
If you shoot with a DSLR, picking up the nifty fifty is a solid way to dip your toe into blurred-background territory without blowing your savings. And if you’re on a mirrorless system, there are similar 50mm or 35mm primes that offer equally wide apertures.
Step Two: Choose A Wide Aperture
The aperture is the opening inside your lens that controls how much light reaches the camera sensor.
A wide aperture, indicated by a smaller f number, helps you create a shallow depth of field.
Shallow depth of field means that less of the scene is in focus, so your subject is sharp while the background is nicely blurred. This is the main trick behind a blurred background in photography.
If you have a lens that goes down to f1.8 or f2.8, try setting it to that wide setting. This means your lens is letting in more light, and your background (and possibly your foreground) will be out of focus unless they are at the same distance as your subject.
If you can only go down to f4 or f5.6, you can still create background blur by adjusting your distance, which we will cover in a moment.
Keep in mind that a wider aperture also changes how your camera meters light, so watch your shutter speed or ISO to avoid overexposure.
Step Three: Control Distance
A big part of nailing that blur is how close you are to your subject and how far your subject is from the background.
If you move closer to your subject, the depth of field becomes shallower.
This can improve that out of focus look, even if your aperture is not super wide.
Simultaneously, if your background is far away, it will naturally appear more blurred, because the lens is focusing on the nearer subject.
For example, if you are taking a portrait outdoors, bring your subject several metres in front of any background elements.
Stand relatively close with your lens set to a wide aperture.
You will see that the background practically melts away. If you place your subject right against a wall, you might not get as much blur because that wall is not far enough behind them.
This is a simple but powerful principle: camera close to subject, subject far from background.
Step Four: Check Your Focal Length
The focal length of your lens also affects the blur.
Longer focal lengths (like 85mm, 100mm, or 200mm) can make the background appear even softer.
This is why professional photographers often love lenses around 85mm or 135mm at wide apertures. The compression effect of a telephoto lens can enhance that background blur.
If you only have a kit lens that goes up to, say, 55mm or 70mm, you can still make it work. Zoom to the longest focal length, set your aperture to the widest setting available, get close to your subject, and ensure there is space behind them.
You will be surprised at how decent the blur can look even on a budget lens.
The main thing is to push that focal length to the max if you want more blur. That might mean stepping back a bit so you can fit your subject in the frame, but that is okay.
Step Five: Adjust Your Camera Settings
We have covered aperture, which is the most important for background blur. But let’s talk about other camera settings to blur background too.
You might want to shoot in Aperture Priority mode. It allows you to set the aperture yourself while the camera picks the shutter speed (and possibly ISO if you are also in Auto ISO).
In manual mode, remember to adjust shutter speed and ISO so you do not overexpose the shot when using a wide aperture.
If you are in a bright environment and your aperture is set to f1.8, your camera might struggle to keep the exposure correct unless your shutter speed is very high or your ISO is very low.
If you cannot reduce the light enough, you might consider a neutral density filter, which is basically sunglasses for your lens. This might sound more advanced, but it is an option if you love that wide aperture look in midday sun.
You also want to be mindful of focus. A shallow depth of field means it is easy to miss focus if you or your subject moves. Use single point autofocus or eye autofocus if available, so your camera locks onto the correct area.
Standing Shots With Background Blur
Want that background blur to really stand out? Here’s a quick trick: don’t park your subject right in front of a hedge or wall.
Give them a few steps of breathing room from whatever chaos is behind them. Set your lens nice and wide (think f/2.8 or lower if your lens goes there), and if it’s a person, ask them to turn slightly with shoulders or hips angled just a bit, so they don’t look like they’re posing for a passport photo.
Picture this: it’s a nice day, you’re in the park, and your mate’s wearing something loud and fabulous. You set your aperture to f/2.8 or f/1.8, take a few steps back, zoom in if you can, and yell something mildly ridiculous to get them to look your way. You focus on their eyes, snap the shot, and boom – sharp face, blurred background.
That’s the power of wide apertures and a bit of space.
Indoor Photography With a Blurred Background
Indoors, you might be dealing with less light, so you will have to watch your shutter speed or use a higher ISO.
Yet you can still achieve a background blur.
Pick your widest aperture, get close to your subject, and ensure that anything behind them is at least a bit away. Indoor backgrounds often have household items, so the blur can hide clutter.
If you are taking a portrait of someone at a desk, you can angle them so the background is further back, set your aperture wide, and get a neat separation effect.
If your camera struggles with focusing in lower light, consider adding a bit of fill light from a lamp or a window.
That can help the autofocus lock on more reliably. If it is still too dark, raise your ISO or place the subject nearer to a light source. With modern cameras, mild noise from higher ISO is often not a big problem.
Macro Photography With a Blurred Background
Blurred backgrounds aren’t just for portraits, macro photography loves a bit of blur too.
When you’re shooting tiny things like flowers, bugs, or mushrooms (yes please), that shallow depth of field turns the background into a dreamy haze that makes your subject really stand out.
Most macro lenses open up nice and wide, which means you can get some seriously dramatic blur but also means your focus zone is tiny. We’re talking sneeze-and-it’s-gone levels of shallow.
So take your time, focus carefully (eyes for bugs, centre for flowers), and don’t be afraid to boost your shutter speed or add a flash if your subject won’t sit still. A tripod can help if you’re feeling fancy or your hands are full of caffeine shakes.
Movement And Blur
If you’re after that gorgeous blurry background but your subject won’t stop moving (looking at you, kids and pets), you just need a fast enough shutter speed to freeze your subject while keeping your aperture wide open.
That might mean bumping up your ISO or shooting in good light so you don’t end up with the whole image blurred.
Telephoto lenses are brilliant for this as they help you keep a nice distance while still getting that lovely background blur, especially during sports or action shots where the crowd becomes a soup of colour.
Fixing Common Issues
Not getting the background blur you were hoping for? Here’s what to check:
1. Zoom or move in closer.
If you’re using a zoom lens, zoom in more. No zoom? Physically get closer to your subject if you can. The closer you are, the blurrier that background gets.
2. Watch your background distance.
If your subject is up against the background (like a wall), there’s no room for blur to happen. Pull them forward a bit, even a few steps can make a huge difference in separating them from the background.
3. Nail your focus.
Wide apertures = very shallow depth of field. That means it’s super easy to miss focus. Switch to single-point autofocus and put that point on the subject’s eye (or the key detail, if it’s not a person).
Troubleshooting exposure issues:
Bright light blowing out your shot?
- Raise your shutter speed
- Lower your ISO
- Still too bright? Try a neutral density filter to cut the light and keep your aperture wide open.
Too dark and murky?
- Add some light from a window, a video light, anything soft and directional.
- Bump up your ISO
Final Thoughts on Achieving a Blurred Background In Photography
Getting a blurred backgrounds in photography is one of the simplest ways to make your photos look polished and intentional, and yes, a bit fancy too.
Whether it’s portraits, macro shots, or even product photos, that soft, dreamy blur (also known as bokeh) draws attention right where you want it: on your subject.
To achieve this, you don’t any crazy photography skills. You just need three things:
- A wide aperture (think f/2.8 or lower)
- A bit of space between your subject and the background
- A longer focal length or getting closer to your subject
Set your aperture wide, focus carefully (usually on the eyes), and let your camera do the rest, either in full manual or Aperture Priority mode if that feels less intimidating.
This trick works beautifully for everything from beautiful family photos to macro.
It turns busy backgrounds into soft colour and helps your subject stand out without distraction. Plus, once you start nailing it, your family tend to think you’ve suddenly become a photography legend.
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