Long Exposure Water Photography Tips & Settings

If you’ve ever stared at a dreamy waterfall shot where the water looks creamy like silk, this is long exposure water photography.

From ocean waves, rivers and streams; long exposure water images bring a touch of magic to any landscape. But how do you actually create these dreamy images, and what kind of settings or gear do you need? Well, put on the kettle, because this is the only guide you will ever need to read about capturing flowing water in all its soft, velvety glory and it’s packed with information.

If you’re new to photography, learning the art of long exposure water techniques can elevate your landscape shots to a professional level.

Let’s get into the nuts and bolts of gear, camera settings, composition tips and all the advice you will need to get started.

Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a small commission if you purchase through them at no extra cost to you. Read my disclosure policy for more info.

Why Long Exposure Water Photography?

Long exposure water photography uses a slow shutter speed to capture moving water in a single shot. As the water flows, it becomes blurred into a smooth, creamy texture. This simple technique can transform any moving body of water into a beautiful landscape that instantly grabs attention.

Create Mood & Drama – Soft, blurred water contrasts really nicely with static elements like rocks or trees, adding more drama to your pictures than an episode of Eastenders.

Get Creative: Long exposures let you create something that people can’t see with their own eyes. You can go for a subtle blur or a full on 30 second exposure, it’s all about personal taste.

Essential Gear for Long Exposure Water Photography

My first attempt at long exposure water photography involved a tiny stream in a local woods with minimal, low budget gear. In my head, I was hoping for epic, gushing waterfalls but you have to start with what is available to you. It still turned out to be a really nice shot, one that’s I’m still proud of now 12 years later.

Contrary to popular belief, you don’t necessarily need the fanciest camera gear to produce stunning long exposure water shots. However, certain pieces of gear can make the journey a lot smoother.

Camera & Lens

DSLR/Mirrorless/Advanced Compact: Any camera that allows manual control of shutter speed and aperture will do.

Wide-Angle Lens: Great for shooting large landscapes like oceans or waterfalls. Wide-angle lenses help you capture more of the environment, giving a sense of scale.

Telephoto Lens: Ideal for isolating specific parts of the water, like a cascading section of a waterfall or the curve of a wave.

Tripod

An absolute must.

For a long exposure photo, you need the camera to be perfectly still to avoid accidental blur. Obviously you want the water to be blurry but everything else in the frame needs to be tack sharp.

Stability: Go for a sturdy tripod, especially if you’re photographing waterfalls and need to place your tripod on a rocky uneven surface.

Weight Hook: Some tripods have a hook for hanging extra weight (like your camera bag) to increase stability, especially when it’s windy.

Neutral Density (ND) Filters

ND filters reduce the amount of light entering the lens. This allows you to use slower shutter speeds in bright conditions without over-exposing your pictures.

Strength Levels: They come in different strengths, like ND2, ND8 etc., indicating how many f-stops of light they block. For dramatic water blur in daylight, ND8 or ND100 (which block 3 and 10 stops of light) are popular choices.

Some come in varying strengths so that you only need one filter. But make sure you choose the right thread size for the diameter of your lens.

Remote Shutter Release

I genuinely cannot live without my remote shutter release. Not only is it my saviour for taking self portraits and pictures of the night sky, it is invaluable for long exposure waterscapes.

A remote shutter cuts out camera shake by letting you trigger the shutter without even touching the camera.

This is the shutter release that I personally use and it has been a faithful piece of kit for me, for years.

Bulb Mode: Some shots require exposures longer than 30 seconds, which is where Bulb mode and a remote are very handy.

Scouting the Perfect Location for Long Exposure Water Photography

Where should you go to practice long exposure water photography? The good news is, water is everywhere; coastlines, rivers, ponds, even water fountains and sprinklers will do. As long as the water is moving, you can practice.

If you have none of the above available to you? Start with a running tap!

Waterfalls

• Large or Small: Don’t be discouraged if you don’t live near Niagara Falls. Smaller waterfalls can be just as stunning when blurred.
• Composition Opportunities: Look for interesting rock formations or surrounding foliage that frame the falling water.
• Seasonal Variations: In autumn, colourful leaves can add lots of interest to your photo. During months where heavy rain is abundant (all year round if you’re in the UK like me) the waterfall will be even more impressive and powerful.

Seascapes

• Waves & Tide: The ocean offers constant movement. Pay attention to tide times – low tide can reveal interesting rocks, while high tide might bring more action. Just be safe and make sure you don’t get cut off by the tide.
• Sunrise & Sunset: The golden hours are amazing for stunning light for both the sky and water surface.
• Foreground Interest: Find something interesting to focus on in the foreground that the water is splashing against.

Rivers & Streams

• Meandering Lines: Rivers create natural leading lines that guide the viewer through the frame. Especially if they are winding rivers.
• Bridges & Man-Made Elements: These make great static subjects to add contrast to the moving water.

Lakes & Ponds

• Minimalistic Vibes: Still water can be turned into a glassy surface with a long exposure if there’s a breeze.
• Foreground Interest: Rocks, logs, or plants can break the simplicity and add focal points.
• Background Interest: Sometimes lakes and ponds can be better for background interest, especially if they are surrounded by trees or mountains.

If you are really stuck for foreground or background interest and your waterscape is a little dull – try throwing some pebbles in the water and get some close ups!

Mastering Long Exposure Water Settings

Let’s dig deeper into how each setting influences the final image, so you can have more creative control over your water shots.

Shutter Speed

• Slow & Steady: Anything below 1/10th of a second can introduce noticeable blur in water, but for a real silky effect, aim for exposures from 2 seconds up to 30 seconds.
• Bulb Mode: For exposures longer than 30 seconds, switch to Bulb mode. You’ll need a remote shutter release or intervalometer to lock the shutter open.
• Trial & Error: The best shutter speed depends on the water’s speed. With faster water you can get away with shorter exposures because it will be blur easily, while with slower moving water you will need a longer exposure.

Aperture

• Depth of Field: Aperture around f/8 to f/16 will ensure a good depth of field for water landscapes. Be mindful of diffraction at very narrow apertures (f/22+), which can soften the image. It depends on your lens and you should test your equipment to see how far you can push it and still get a quality image. I have used f/22 lots of times with my more expensive lenses but wouldn’t get away with it on my more budget lenses.
• Exposure: Not only does using a smaller aperture allow you to keep the landscape in focus, but it reduces the light coming through the lens. This means you can use a slower shutter speed without overexposing.
• Balance the Light: Smaller apertures let you use longer shutter speeds in brighter conditions but an ND filter is still your best friend.

ISO

• Keep It Low: Use the lowest native ISO (often ISO 100) for the best image quality and to limit light intake.
• High ISO?: Only increase ISO if you’re shooting in very low light and absolutely have to but typically with a really long exposure, this isn’t necessary.

White Balance

• Auto or Manual?: Auto white balance can suffice, but if you’re in a mixed-light environment or using ND filters, consider manual WB and shoot in RAW format for flexibility when you’re editing the images.

Composition Tips for Long Exposure Water Shots

You’ve got your gear and settings sorted, but composition is what truly brings a long exposure image to life.

Foreground, Middle Ground, Background

Include interesting elements in each “layer” of your photo – like rocks in the foreground, water in the middle, and a mountain or sky in the background.

Layering helps convey depth, making the viewer feel as though they could step right into the photo.

Leading Lines

Bodies of water like rivers and streams often form natural lines that draw the eye. Use these lines to guide viewers through the frame.

Bridges, piers, or railings can offer strong geometric lines for contrast against flowing water.

Rule of Thirds

Place the horizon (or the main water line) along the top or bottom third to create balance. If you find a symmetrical scene embrace the center.

Break the Rules: Sometimes, ignoring the rule of thirds will get you a stand-out unconventional image but learning how to use the rule of thirds in your waterscapes, will help you know how to break it.

Colour & Contrast

Look for colour in your long exposure water photos, like glassy blue water against green mossy rocks or golden light cast over your foreground interest and pink hues in the sky.

Foggy or cloudy days can create moody, monochromatic shots that emphasise contrast over colour.

I once photographed a small cascade in a stream in the woods. Initially, the shot was bland just water and trees. Then I spotted a ton of bright red leaves further down the stream. Placing myself in a different position turned the entire image from “meh” to “my new desktop wallpaper!”.

Advanced Techniques for Long Exposure Water Photos

If you’re itching to push your long exposure water images even further, here are some more advanced techniques you can try.

Exposure Stacking

This is where you take several long exposure water images and stack them together in Photoshop or specialised stacking software. It allows you to get a much longer exposure than just taking one photo. Making your water pictures extra dramatic and dreamy.

My favourite photographer for super slow exposures is Gary Gough, his work is incredible.

HDR (High Dynamic Range)

Water scenes often have bright highlights (water reflections) and dark shadows (rocks or forest). HDR merges multiple exposures for more detail.

Handling Wind, Waves, and Other Challenges

Nature can be unpredictable, especially when you’re dealing with water. Here’s how to manage some common challenges.

Instability

• Tripod Stability: Make sure your tripod is firmly planted. Use a weight hook if available.
• Shield Your Camera: You can block gusts of wind with your body or a reflector.
• Faster vs. Slower: If the wind is too strong, consider a slightly faster shutter so you don’t get blur in the rest of your shot.

Water Damage

• Lens Hood & Filters: A lens hood can keep droplets off your front element. A protective filter is easier to wipe than the lens itself.
• Microfiber Cloth: Bring multiple cloths in case one gets soaked.
• Rain Cover: Consider using a rain cover & check out these tips for rain photography.
• Corrosion: Sea water can be corrosive, so make sure you clean the salt water from the legs of your tripod after use.

Keeping Safe

• Check Tide Times: If you’re shooting at the coast, a rising tide can trap you on rocks if you’re not careful. Check tide times before you shoot, so you can take long exposures safely.
• Check Surf Report: I find it extra useful when photographing the sea, to check the surf report. Some beaches are dangerous when the waves are too high and the winds are too strong.
• Slippery Surfaces: Not to sound like a health and safety lecture but rocks and surfaces near waterfalls and streams can be super slippery. Please be careful and go slowly.

Editing & Post-Processing Long Exposure Water Photography

Long exposure shots often look amazing straight out of the camera, but a bit of editing can give them a polished look.

Basic Adjustments

White Balance: Tweak if you notice any colour shifts from your ND filter or lighting conditions.

Exposure & Contrast: Ensure the water isn’t too blown out by bringing down the highlights. Boost shadows if necessary to reveal rock details.

Clarity/Texture: Use these sliders with consideration; a little clarity and texture can be good for other details but we want the water to remain soft and dreamy.

Dodging & Burning

Dodge if you need to lighten the path of the water to make it pop. Burn to tone down areas that pull attention away from the main subject.

Noise Reduction

Even at low ISOs, very long exposures can introduce noise. Lightroom or Topaz DeNoise can help. Just don’t overdo it, or you’ll lose the natural texture in your image.

Colour Grading

A bit of colour grading goes a long way to polishing up your photos but be mindful of the water. You don’t want to turn a waterfall green when it was more of a milky white to begin with.

Practise Exercises For Long Exposure Water Photography

Ready to practice your long exposure water photography? Here are some exercises to get you started.

Starter Long Exposure Water Exercise: Kitchen Tap or Garden Hose

• Why This Works: You can do it at home, controlling the flow of water.
• Goal: Experiment with shutter speeds from 1/30s down to 30s. Observe how water texture changes with each setting.
• Bonus Twist: Use a colourful background like glitter card or shine a small light on the water to make it stand out.

Intermediate Long Exposure Water Exercise: Local Stream or Fountain

• Find a Safe Spot: Set up your tripod near flowing water.
• Vary Apertures: Shoot at f/4, then at f/11 to see how depth of field influences the shot.
• Incorporate Foreground Objects: Some foreground interest can instantly improve the composition.

Advanced Long Exposure Water Exercise: Seascapes at Sunset or Blue Hour

• Plan Ahead: Check weather, tides, and sunset times.
• ND Filter On: Aim for exposures between 1–30 seconds to get that silky water effect.
• Refine Composition: Include a pier, lighthouse, or rock formations for added interest.

My kitchen tap was my practise space for long exposures when I was a beginner. I tried every setting imaginable, from fast shutter speeds freezing the water droplets to 30-second exposures smoothing them out. This practise paid off when I finally got out to shoot in nature. I already had a firm grasp on my settings and I already knew how each setting would make the water look.

Overcoming Common Mistakes in Long Exposure Water Photography

Even professionals make errors, but recognising them on location can save you a wasted trip and hours of frustration.

Overexposed Water

Reason: Shutter speed too slow without enough light control.

Fix: Use stronger ND filters, a narrower aperture, or shoot during lower light conditions.

Camera Shake

Reason: Unstable tripod, wind, or pressing the shutter button.

Fix: Weigh down the tripod, use a remote shutter release, or enable a 2-second timer.

Colour Cast

Reason: ND filters can sometimes introduce a colour tinge (brown, green, magenta, etc.).

Fix: Correct in post-processing, or buy higher-quality ND filters with less cast.

Blurred Land/Foreground

Reason: Long exposure can blur not just water but also trees or plants if the wind is blowing.

Fix: Wait for calmer conditions or use a faster shutter speed for elements you don’t want blurred.

Getting Creative With Long Exposure Water Images

Once you’ve nailed the basics you can get extra creative with it. Push the boundaries of composition, or be more experimental with your editing skills.

Black & White Minimalism

If you’ve read enough of this blog or seen enough of my work, you will know that I’m a sucker for black and white. I love how it takes all the business out of an image and forces you to rely on other elements to make your picture work.

Black and white long exposure images can highlight the flow of water and turn the background into negative space.

You could also keep it minimal by focusing on a single rock or a lone tree with water swirling around it.

Light Painting with Water

This is not something I have tried with water myself yet but I have done it with other landscapes. But how unique would your pictures be if you added some light painting?

You could shine lights across the water during the exposure, or you could have some glow sticks float down a stream for cool light trails. Just make sure you’re able to retrieve the glow sticks afterwards and dispose of them properly.

I did once kind of get an accidental version of this because there were some night time swimmers on a beach, and they all had light up tow floats. Next time, I’m going to try and get this kind of shot on purpose and I’m sure it will be much better.

Long Exposure Water Photography: Final Thoughts

Long exposure water photography is a great skill to learn. Even the subtlest of water movement can make a picture even better just by adopting a slow shutter and a few extra tricks. By experimenting with gear, settings and the important safety tips, you’ll take some amazing images that go beyond just documenting what you see.

Perfection isn’t everything here, experimentation is. My own photo library is littered with misfires: water that looks lifeless, shots so overexposed there is no coming back, and entire sessions lost to a broken tripod. But each failure taught me something new.

Hopefully with the knowledge from this post, you will go in to it a lot less blind than I did and will be more prepared. But nothing ever goes exactly how you expect it to on paper. You will always have challenges and make mistakes. And that is okay!

What body of water are you most eager to photograph? Let me know in the comments.

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